Alicia Ogaja
ATLAS 4519 Sustainable Design
University of Colorado Boulder
Instructor: Eldy Lazaro
Life Cycle Analysis of Polybion x Ganni Bacteria Cellulose Jacket
My research focuses on a qualitative life cycle analysis (LCA) of a bacteria cellulose jacket made by Ganni. The bacteria cellulose is a vegan leather derived from mango waste. In the life cycle of the product, I will be focusing on the material & energy input and waste & emissions outputs. The analysis considers the following phases: “Raw Materials Acquisition”, “Manufacturing, Processing and Formulation”, “Distribution and Transportation”, “Use, Re-Use and Maintenance”, “Recycling and Waste Management”. My motivation for this research is to be able to mitigate ways to reduce pollution in the fashion industry as fast fashion is common today as well as greenwashing. Some information you might gain from this topic is understanding of each category of bacteria cellulose such as the raw materials, embodied energy, and waste.
Raw Material of Bacteria Cellulose Jacket
Raw Material Acquisition
The utilization of bacterial cellulose as the main material could be a solution for environmental challenges in the fashion industry. Bacterial cellulose is a network of carbohydrate molecules that has transformed into a solution of the fashion industry’s sustainable goal. It is derived from a non-pathogenic bacteria produced polysaccharide with a 3D nanofibrous material (Lacramioara Popa et. al, 2022). In addition, it can absorb large quantities of water and possess great qualities of physicochemical and mechanical properties, making it ideal for creating handbags and jackets. This material starts from the ground as the source that helps to feed the bacteria is mangos. The mangos are important because they contain cellulose. As mangos ripen and become fruit waste, then the bacteria produces cellulose as a byproduct.
Manufacturing, Processing and Formulation
The manufacturing phase involves the following process: cultivating bacteria, washing and treating cellulose, drying and shaping to assemble the leather. First, the bacteria are cultivated of gram-negative bacteria then are placed on a culture medium. The structure of the bacteria is like plant cellulose which forms a mat of bacterial cellulose that has a texture of wet leather. After producing enough cellulose, they become harvested, then it is washed and treated to remove any impurities.
Once the bacteria cellulose is washed, it undergoes a process of drying to create a desired leather texture. Then, the bacterial fibers can be formulated to create the shapes and naturals can help enhance the look like a leather jacket.
Distribution and Transportation
The sourcing and production of the bacteria cellulose mainly prioritizes nearby locations of local canned fruit productions by mitigating methane emissions from landfills. The transportation may include a truck from the fruit production to the production facility, Polybion, where fruit waste becomes bacteria fermentation. Then, the final product of bacteria cellulose is distributed to Ganni for garment production. This phase may include logistics to distribute the bacteria cellulose to the right manufacturer. Once the production of the bacterial cellulose garment is finished, it is shipped to retailers and globally through different types of transportation methods. The shipping process may include planes, trucks, or ships.
Use, Re-Use and Maintenance
The production and maintenance of bacteria cellulose include additional raw materials such as dyes, finishes, and structural support. The dyes of the bacteria cellulose jackets could be extracted from natural sources and threads could provide structural support for the shape. For maintaining the bacteria cellulose jacket, it may require using gentle cleaning detergents and protective coating to take care of the material. In addition, the buttons and zippers may require replacements in the long-term.
Recycle
The materials in the recycling process include chemicals and recycled materials to enable recycling in Ganni garments. The material polyamide used in Ganni’s tag must use chemicals to break down to transform it into new fibers. Ganni also collaborates with Infinite Fiber Company and Renewcell to practice fiber-to-fiber recycling such as cotton yarn. Other materials such as buttons and zippers are sourced as Ganni practices sustainability that comes from responsible wear, organic material, and low impact material. The packaging material for garments is made from recycled products and Ganni partners with Repack.
Waste Management
The Polybion company utilizes bacteria cellulose made from fruit waste. By using waste, Polybion prevents greenhouse gas emissions from being released while minimizing the cost of production. The bacteria cellulose jacket is biodegradable as it can naturally break down after being disposed of. This can help minimize environmental impact by composting garments instead of placing them in landfills. The bacterial cellulose jackets require less harsher chemicals compared to traditional manufacturing processes. As a result, this encourages sustainable tactics as it reduces environmental harm in textile production.
In conclusion, by utilizing bacteria cellulose provides a way of sustainability in the fashion industry such as mango fruit waste. Other innovative companies could also create environmentally friendly textiles despite challenges remaining in scaling up production.
Bibliography on Raw Material of Bacteria Cellulose Jacket
“Bacterial Cellulose—A Remarkable Polymer as a Source for Biomaterials Tailoring.” NCBI, 29 January 2022, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8839122/. Accessed 14 April 2024.
“Dynamics of bacterial and fungal communities of mango: From the tree to ready-to-Eat products.” ScienceDirect, 5 March 2024, https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0740002022001198. Accessed 14 April 2024.
Zhong, Chunyan. “Bacterial Cellulose as a Raw Material for Food and Food Packaging Applications.” Frontiers, 25 January 2019, https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsufs.2019.00007/full. Accessed 14 April 2024.
Barron, Madeline. “Are Bacteria the Next Big Thing in Fashion?” American Society for Microbiology, 11 December 2023, https://asm.org/articles/2023/december/are-bacteria-the-next-big-thing-in-fashion. Accessed 14 April 2024.
Embodied Energy Summary on Bacteria Cellulose Jackets
Bacteria cellulose jackets are considered a replacement for leather jackets and aim to be more environmentally sustainable. This form of vegan leather has the potential to eliminate the use of large energy inefficient animal herds. The benefits of this include helping the life cycle of clothes become more sustainable due to the fashion industry being one of the top polluting industries. Clothing brands must avoid greenwashing that mainly focuses on profiting off clothes that appear to be sustainable. In this writing, I decided to research Polybion and Ganni on ways they are shifting towards a sustainable fashion approach by making a qualitative life cycle analysis of Ganni’s bacterial cellulose jacket. This analysis considers the following phases: “Raw Materials Acquisition”, “Manufacturing, Processing and Formulation”, “Distribution and Transportation”, “Use, Re-Use and Maintenance”, “Recycling and Waste Management”.
Raw Materials Acquisition
In this assessment, we will examine the embodied energy of the main raw materials that are required in the production of the bacteria cellulose jacket. Mainly focusing on the cultivation and the processing of bacteria cellulose which includes the energy contribution. The bacteria cellulose is considered to have lower energy and chemical demand compared to a regular leather jacket. The raw materials used are canned fruit mangoes waste that are used to generate more bacteria to create a growth medium in Central Mexico in a factory called Polybion. I assume that the energy that is present in mangoes is at least 230 kj because most of the energy comes from carbohydrates. It serves as an energy source for the bacteria as it mostly contains glucose and fructose. When the bacteria are getting fed by mango waste it serves as a substrate for fermentation then it converts the sugar to produce energy. Furthermore, the energy is used by the bacteria for metabolic processes such as the synthesis of bacteria cellulose. In this case, the mangoes indirectly contribute energy by supplying sugar as a substrate for bacterial metabolism.
During the cultivation process, energy is required for sustaining environmental conditions in bioreactors to enhance bacteria growth while sterilizing. There is also energy used in harvesting and processing which include practices in manual and mechanical harvesting such as washing, sterilizing, and drying. Other forms of energy can extend from treatments and dye procedures.
Manufacturing, Processing and Formulation
The machines use renewable energy as electricity contributes to having potentially the lowest impact in environmental pollution. So, the PV (Photovoltaic) equipment is used for power production and is low impact for creating the bacteria cellulose. The PV equipment has a capacity of 112.5 kVA, which equals a power of 101.25 kW (Bründl, 2022). According to the Life Cycle Assessment of Polybion, 90% of the transformer of the PV equipment is utilized while the rest is heating loss. Based on my research, I am assuming that the manufacturing process is time consuming as it also requires procedures such as tanning, wax finish, threading, and yarn. The embodied energy for tanning is mostly from curing or allowing the tan to air dry instead of using machinery. In addition, I am assuming the wax finished is sourced from renewables and most energy is required through melting, blending, and refining. However, the threading mostly needs energy from operating mechanical machines, melting and drying processes. The yarn Ganni uses is mostly recycled and made from cotton which saves extra energy by reusing the material as much as possible.
Overall, for all the materials the energy will be coming from transporting the pieces of the bacteria cellulose jacket to Ganni. I am also assuming that the packaging of the material is all sustainable and recyclable, but most likely will be using airplanes with Jet A1 fuel for energy. The transportation process from Central Mexico to Copenhagen, Denmark will require using an airplane. The traveling distance is around 5,946 miles and could take 16 hours and 5 minutes. I am assuming that Jet A1 fuel is used because it is an international flight and the specific energy required is 43.1 MJ/kg. So, for the traveling distance of 9,569.159 kilometers will require 412,430.75 MJ/kg of Jet A1 fuel. The tailoring process of the bacteria cellulose jacket must require labels and yarn.
Distribution and Transportation
The transportation of the final product to end users has different delivery methods as customers can purchase online and in-store. Ganni offers delivery for customers such as the Budbee delivery method that uses renewable diesel as its energy. It is mostly made from a hydrogenated vegetable oil made from animal fat waste from food industries and recycled cooking oil that does not contribute to releasing CO2. In addition, the renewable diesel fuel is compatible with most diesel engines. When shipped internationally then Ganni uses DHL Express and gets their fuel from biofuels made from agricultural waste, animal fats, or cooking oil.
Use, Re-Use and Maintenance
The embodied energy in this phase is counted towards washing, drying, and caring routine. When considering the garment’s lifetime, it must be washed less often by a low spin washing program which saves a lot of energy. Then, the bacteria cellulose jacket must be placed in a sun to air dry or hang the garment. For the jackets to have a long-lasting wear, the curing process for the jackets is done through using a wax finish. This requires some energy (thermal, chemical, mechanical, electrical, and renewable) to be used within the standard use stage to maintain the jacket. Based on my research on waxy cow leather, I am assuming it could be used on bacteria cellulose jackets to be resistant from wear or tears for years. This product also helps with keeping the product preserved by making it resistant to dirt and oils.
Recycle
This product can be composted because it is made from fruit waste. It can be done if there are no harmful dyes or chemicals in the leather so it can biodegrade and become beneficial as fertilizer. Based on the research for vegan jackets, I think this process requires energy if focused on the industrial process. According to the ChromeFree Leather Alliance, the industrial process includes composting at temperatures of 60-70 ℃ and a humidity of 50-60% for microorganisms to feed on nutrients and degrade organic materials. However, if it is chopped into pieces, it does not require much energy for vegan jackets. When an individual composts the jacket in the garden it must not contain non-compostable materials.
Other recycling materials include labels, yarn, and buttons that help with energy saving, resource conservation, waste reduction, and circular economy.
Waste Management
If not composted, I suspect that it goes to landfills, which releases a lot of greenhouse gas emissions. One of the waste management facilities from Copenhagen, Denmark is Amager Bakke, which focuses on limiting greenhouse gas emissions, which Ganni brand might transport their waste there to find sustainable approaches. The Amager Bakke uses an incinerator that uses natural gas as fuel to heat up the waste.
In conclusion, there is less energy being wasted with bacteria cellulose jackets throughout the manufacturing process. I believe the decomposition process for these types of fashion clothes in the world will be faster and beneficial. Overall, I think this collaboration between Polybion and Ganni, while it is a first step, is a great representation of how other clothing companies should avoid greenwashing by truly making sustainable apparel.
Bibliography on Embodied Energy of Bacteria Cellulose Jacket
Bründl, Simone. “LCA of Novel Technology in the Textile industry.” Polybion, 2022, https://polybion.cdn.prismic.io/polybion/15ef5b9e-2545-460d-a2e2-78fa3e9ce70b_Celium-+Polybion+LCA+2022.pdf. Accessed 07 March 2024.
“Nutrition - Mangoes Australia.” Mangoes Australia, https://mangoes.net.au/nutrition/. Accessed 14 April 2024.
Bründl, Simone. “LCA of Novel Technology in the Textile industry.” Polybion, 2022, https://polybion.cdn.prismic.io/polybion/15ef5b9e-2545-460d-a2e2-78fa3e9ce70b_Celium-+Polybion+LCA+2022.pdf. Accessed 07 March 2024.
CEMAsys. “Ganni's Carbon Footprint 2016.” A Carbon Footprint Life Cycle Assessment Study of Ganni Clothing Collection 2016, https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/ungc-production/attachments/cop_2017/370971/original/01_Ganni_clothing_carbon_footprint_2016.pdf?1490792645. Accessed 7 March 2024.
GANNI. “Reusable Packaging.” GANNI, https://www.ganni.com/fr-fr/aide-et-informations/why-repack.html. Accessed 7 March 2024.
Rome2Rio. “Mexico City to Denmark - 5 Ways to Travel via Train, and Plane.” Rome2Rio, https://www.rome2rio.com/s/Mexico-City/Denmark. Accessed 7 March 2024.
Skytanking. “Glossary: Jet Fuel.” Skytanking, https://www.skytanking.com/news-info/glossary/jet-fuel/. Accessed 7 March 2024.
“What Are the Different Types of Aviation Fuel?” National Aviation Academy, 18 November 2021, https://www.naa.edu/aviation-fuel/. Accessed 7 March 2024.
Delivery with Budbee, https://budbee.com/. Accessed 14 April 2024.
“Sustainable Aviation Fuel Solutions - Delivered - Global.” DHL, https://www.dhl.com/global-en/delivered/sustainability/scaling-up-sustainable-aviation-fuel-solutions.html. Accessed 14 April 2024.
Steel Horse Leather in the Journal. “What is "Waxed Leather"? An in-depth Guide to Waxed Leather.” Steel Horse Leather, 24 May 2021, https://steelhorseleather.com/blogs/the-journal/what-is-waxed-leather-an-in-depth-guide-to-waxed-leather. Accessed 7 March 2024.
Pistorio, Daniele. “A Technician's Perspective: Understanding Recyclable, Biodegradable & Compostable Materials.” ChromeFree Leather Alliance, 9 November 2017, https://www.chromefree.org/post/a-leather-technicians-perspective-on-recyclable-biodegradable-compostable-materials. Accessed 7 March 2024.
“Amager Bakke: A Look into the Future of Waste Incineration - Blog - Business & Environment.” Harvard Business School, 30 March 2023, https://www.hbs.edu/environment/blog/post/IFC-Amager-Bakke. Accessed 7 March 2024.
“Amager Bakke: leader in waste-to-energy.” Ramboll, https://www.ramboll.com/projects/energy/amager-bakke-leader-in-waste-to-energy. Accessed 7 March 2024.
Waste and Emissions of Bacteria Cellulose Jacket
Ganni, a fashion brand, striving for a more sustainable approach beyond the use of mycelium leather. Through a partnership with Polybion, Ganni intends to promote bacteria cellulose jackets, which are claimed to require fewer natural resources and produce a quarter of the carbon footprint used compared to mycelium jackets (Hahn, 2023). However, this leather alternative appears promising in terms of production efficiency, concerns may arise when analyzing the waste and emissions throughout the qualitative life cycle, including “Raw Materials Acquisition”, “Manufacturing, Processing and Formulation”, “Distribution and Transportation”, “Use, Re-Use and Maintenance”, “Recycling and Waste Management”. Despite the minimal cost implications, it is crucial for examining the environmental impact across each phase to ensure the sustainability of the fashion item.
Raw Material Acquisition
The extraction process of the raw materials for bacteria cellulose jackets present environmental challenges that must be confronted for sustainable production. Through examining the various factors that contribute to water depletion, freshwater eutrophication, greenhouse gas emissions and waste management. The main raw materials to make bacteria cellulose: water and mango fruit waste. Since bacterial cellulose jackets grow in a medium, we analyze the phases, as it becomes evident that bacterial cellulose jackets are more beneficial than traditional bovine leather even though it may pose some environmental impact.
In terms of water usage, according to the Life Cycle Assessment of Polybion, water depletion is a critical issue as it is used to create the bacteria cellulose, which results in depletion. The water depletion (per 1m²) of bacteria cellulose jackets is 0.077 m³, while bovine leather jackets is 0.384 m³ (Bründl, 2022). According to Fabrics by the Yard, the average amount of fabric needed for a jacket is 2 meters.
Furthermore, the natural tanning process includes a tanning solution from tanneries that could lead to freshwater eutrophication from the treatments, although bacteria cellulose leather has a lower risk compared to bovine leather. During the extraction phase of bacteria cellulose, gasses contribute significantly to global warming potential, accounting for 60 % of emissions from the electricity input from a small scale of Celium production. (Bründl, 2022). A significant concern that may arise is mango waste, such as fruit peels, which is critical to prevent soil and water pollution, eutrophication and greenhouse gas emissions.
Manufacturing, Processing and Formulation
The sustainable production of bacteria cellulose jackets includes integrating environmentally friendly practices from material manufacturing to tailoring, to minimize environmental impact while promoting carbon sequestration.
The Polybion factory operates as a solar powered manufacturing facility that utilizes agro-industrial food waste to minimize emissions. This approach helps reduce emissions to -0.82kg CO2 eq. per 1m² when waste is not thrown in landfills (Bründl, 2022). However, if the waste ends up in landfills the emissions released is 12.27kg CO2 eq. per 1m², which is equivalent to 0.014 acres of U.S. forests in one year (EPA, 2024). This can act as a carbon sequestration if lower amounts of emission are pumped into the air.
Furthermore, in the materials manufacturers, Fabrics of the Future like Vegea, provide the essential components for Ganni’s jacket while utilizing low-carbon materials. The tailoring process is done through a partnership with SOJO that mainly focuses on sustainability. While certain details of the tailoring process of SOJO are limited, I imagine that it includes cutting and sewing various jacket pieces to ensure reusability and durability. Like a regular leather jacket each piece must be cut and sewed for the front, back and sleeve areas.
Within the manufacturing process, Ganni prioritizes the health and conditions of its employees by providing a hygienic and safe work environment within the Code of Conduct. The company adheres to environmental protection laws and implements the commitment of 50% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions by 2027. The suppliers oversee using more renewable energy and must sign to the Restricted Substance List, which is a legislation to regulate chemicals. In addition, suppliers must document responsible materials that are available upon request. Ganni’s goal is to support the continuous improvement by sending representatives to inspect the supplier and subcontractors (Ganni, 2024).
Distribution and Transportation
The global transportation sector, particularly through the use of airplanes, significantly contributes to CO2 through the combustion of fossil fuels. Additionally, nitrogen oxides, vapor trails and cloud formations that are left by airplanes at high altitude can exacerbate climate change (Transport & Environment, 2022). This product travels from Mexico to Europe. The traveling distance from Polybion to Ganni is approximately 5910.15 miles which could emit 141.84 metric tons of CO2. However, the transportation to SOJO, the tailoring company partnering with Ganni, could pose additional challenges as shipping from Copenhagen, Denmark to London, United Kingdom would require an airplane transport of 593.88 miles. This leads to another 14.25 metric tons of CO2 within the atmosphere which contributes to global warming. However, the packaging material is made from reusable materials, which reduces waste emissions.
Use, Reuse and Maintenance
In the use phase, the sustainable use of bacteria cellulose jackets includes factors such as washing, drying, and material composition. These considerations are still made regarding waste to emphasize friendly practices to minimize water waste and pollution.
However, Ganni does not provide much information on the washing process of vegan leather jackets, since bacteria cellulose is a new material. According to the Aritzia website, vegan leather must be washed separately in cold water to avoid color transfer. This practice is a safe technique for the clothes as it reduces up to 70% of microfiber tears. Furthermore, by using milder detergents it can minimize chemical runoff into waterways.
When it comes to the drying phase, it is best advised to utilize flat surfaces instead of dryers. In addition, the brand Aritzia advises vegan leather to be washed less frequently as it can reduce water usage and could save approximately 18 gallons of water from each load.
The polyurethane coating and bio-based backing used in bacteria cellulose jackets is important for addressing environmental safety. The polyurethane coating does not change pH levels in water or soil. In addition, there are no harsh chemicals that could contaminate water resources. However, the bio-based backing has the potential to contribute to the reduction of carbon emissions through absorbing CO2.
Recycle
Exploring the recycling process of Ganni clothes reveal water usage, chemical inputs, pollution outputs, and other environmental impacts. During my research of Ganni’s recycling process, their clothing labels are 100% Polyamide that can be resistant to wear and tears after washing and drying, however not eco-friendly. This synthetic material is mostly derived from non-renewable resources such as oil, in addition, it sheds microplastics during washes, which contributes to waterway and ocean pollution. Despite being durable, Polyamide could still end up in landfills at the end of its lifecycle. The environmental impacts include damaging the ecosystem from microplastic pollution.
In contrast, Ganni still shows commitment for sustainability by recycling cotton yarn, which prevents a large amount of cotton waste. Ganni collaborates with Infinite Fiber Company and Renewcell to further implement fiber-to-fiber recycling. According to the TEXtalks, it states “The 50% pre-consumer recycled cotton yarn uses off-cuts generated by its own t-shirt production, which will prevent 12 tonnes of cotton from being scrapped every year”.
Furthermore, I assume the material of buttons and zippers are coming from recycling as 90% of their production collection come from responsible styles as 50% must be organic, recycled or low impact (Ganni, 2024). Since Ganni focuses on being eco-friendly, the recycling of silver buttons minimizes CO2 emissions and avoids the mining for more silver as it could cause erosion and destruction of habitats.
Additionally, in response to the environmental concerns, the fashion brand Ganni partnered with RePack to minimize CO2 emissions by packaging their products with recyclable materials, reducing up to 80% of CO2 emissions. Their packaging amounts to a total carbon footprint of 43 tCO2 emissions.
Waste Management
The waste management for bacteria cellulose jackets possess eco-friendly attributes, such as biodegradability and compostability, along with potential hazards during disposal that need to be examined carefully when handling environmental impacts.
If clothes are not composted, there is an option to rent Ganni clothes for a rental period that lasts one week. When considering the hazards of disposing of the bacteria jackets on the ground it is important to understand that the bacteria cellulose itself is non-toxic. According to Lacramioara Popa et. al, bacteria cellulose is an ecological polysaccharide and is known to have excellent physicochemical and mechanical properties. It is mainly derived from cellulose, an abundant polymer that is found within our surroundings, in this case, it was sourced from mango waste. It has a recyclable nature, high biodegradability, biocompatibility and flexibility. Furthermore, the bacteria cellulose can self-biodegrade by the presence of other living microorganisms.
However, it may be questionable if the leather has dye or is treated. Despite being able to biograde, the presence of dye can affect the compostability as it could have harmful effects on the environment. This includes lowering the quality of water, disrupting food chains, increasing bioaccumulation and toxicity, and the interference of photosynthesis. It is also important to analyze the aftereffects of special treatment, which has polyurethane coating and bio-based backing that have low environmental impact. However, if polyurethane coating ends up in a landfill, it can decompose and become hazardous such as being an environmentally damaging substance.
In conclusion, bacteria cellulose leather jackets have a significantly lower waste footprint compared to bovine leather jackets. Despite the challenges of trying to find accurate information on material waste being tough, the research on vegan leather jackets still provided opportunities for clothing companies to reuse leftover waste. This can lead to ways of improving sustainability and Earth’s natural cycle.
Bibliography on Waste and Emissions of Bacteria Cellulose Jackets
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