Safiya Mohammed
DES040A Fall 2021
Professor Cogdell
TA: Daniel
Chanel No.5: Raw Materials
With an estimated net worth of $15 billion, the brand Chanel has been the icon of luxury for hundreds of years. The true star of this fashion house’s success however is owed to the world’s best-selling fragrance, Chanel No. 5. This perfume is not only known for its image and branding but also for its delicate fragrance that had encapsulated the image of a liberated woman in the 1900s. In fact, the classic glass bottle this fragrance is housed in also plays a big role in the iconic standard of the fragrance. The materials used for both the fragrance and bottle of Chanel No. 5 are unique in their own way. From the precise number of 1,000 jasmine and 12 rosa centifolia flowers, as well as the chemical aldehydes, to the delicate glass of its whiskey-looking bottle, the process and life cycle of the materials used to create this perfume has a very extensive list. However, something that many people do not consider when it comes to using perfumes such as the Chanel No. 5, is the energy and emissions that the production of the materials as well as the use of the product releases.
The fragrance that is emitted from the iconic gold-tinted liquid is created from a very special harvest of flowers grown in the fields of Pegomas, France. Each bottle of Chanel No.5 is composed of 1,000 Pegomas jasmine flowers and 10 rosa centifolia. Since the mid 19th century, the luxury brand has been in a partnership with the Mul family whose fields harvest the flower crops. The rosa centifolia is also known as cabbage roses and are famous for their clear honeyed scent. Once the roses are in bloom, the entirety of the fifty acres would need to be hand-picked in two weeks by a crew of seventy people. Once these flowers are harvested, the oils would need to be extracted from them immediately in order to retain their special scent. In the factory, the flowers are then put through an elaborate process that takes them from the raw materials of petals to a concrete waxy solid, and then finally to an extremely concentrated fragrant oil. In a large vat, the flowers are mixed with a liquid solvent called hexane which both takes the flowers from a pink to a brown color as well as makes it smell more burnt. Through distillation, the oil is then extracted from the flowers. However, the classic scent of Chanel No. 5 is not just attributed to the presence of these flowers but also to the chemical aldehydes in the solution.
While Chanel No.5 is the one that popularized aldehydes in a perfume scent, it was first discovered in 1835 by a German chemist named Justus von Liebig. This chemical was created by oxidizing primary alcohols that don’t contain hydrogen. There are two types of aldehydes: aromatic and aliphatic. While aliphatic aldehydes are derived from natural sources, aromatic aldehydes have a more synthetic structure. The main contribution that these aldehydes give the perfume is its distinctive “clean” scent. According to biophysicist Lucas Turin, aldehydes help “lift” the overwhelming sweet and heavy scent of the oil derived from the flowers. In fact, it was the presence of these aldehydes that made Chanel choose the scent of No.5 back in 1920. The fresh scent of the aldehydes was the opposite of the scent that many women back then went for according to the brand. Unlike the typical brazen and synthetic perfume, the brand wanted to go for something more natural. So, while most aldehydes found in perfumes are synthetic, the aldehydes in the Chanel No.5 fragrance are combined with a mix of C-9 and C-11 rose essential oil aldehydes as well as C-8, C-10, & C-12 citrus zest aldehydes.
It is not only the scent that contributes to the extreme popularity of Chanel No.5 but also its iconic packaging that is reminiscent of a laboratory vial or a whiskey bottle. Throughout the years, the bottle this fragrance is housed in has become a symbol of modernity with it being displayed in the New York Museum of Modern Art as well as it becoming the muse of many great artists such as Andy Warhol. The main material of this bottle is made from expensive and delicate glass, which was originally at the request of Coco Chanel. The stopper was cut into a multi-dimensional top to resemble a diamond and it has a classic rectangular body. Traditionally, glass is made from raw materials like sand, soda ash, and limestone. After the batch of raw materials is processed together, it is then floated onto a solution of melted tin which helps create a flat and smooth surface. The whole mixture is then melted in a furnace at a very high temperature that can go up to 1675 degrees Fahrenheit. After that, the glass would be ready to be molded into the iconic shape of No.5.
When it comes to the distribution process of the perfume, it is mainly done through planes from France. Some of the major raw materials that are used in this aerospace industry include aluminum, titanium, steel, and other alloys. In addition, this also uses fossil fuels such as gasoline as well. However, recently Chanel started implementing more energy-efficient techniques in their products and transportation. To reduce emissions, they decided to make a majority of their products be delivered through ships when possible.
Due to how iconic the brand and packaging are, it is not common for people to actually throw away the Chanel No. 5 bottles. A large majority repurpose the bottles to either hold other solutions or just keep it as a decorative statement piece. Some may even sell them on eBay or other sites for extremely high prices as a collector’s piece. However, if one were to throw away the Chanel No. 5 bottle it would be turned into a cullet. Cullet is basically a fancier name for recycled glass. There are two types of cullet: internal and external. While the internal cullet is made of faulty materials that are rejected by the quality control process of glass manufacturing, the external cullet is basically scrapped glass that is meant solely for the purpose of recycling. The glass bottles would be cleaned and crushed & then mixed with sand, limestone, and other materials before being melted together.
Interestingly enough, however, a special 2021 collaboration done by Chanel in honor of No.5’s 100th anniversary introduced a new recycled glass bottle. The elaborate process used to create this new glass, which has also become the first of its kind for any high brand product or any perfume bottle, is aided by the use of SEVA-3 which is a new-generation recycled glass. The SEVA-3 recycled glass process for the new generation Chanel No.5 bottles is made of both external and internal cullet. With the introduction of this recycled glass, it will reduce the use of natural resources whilst also reducing the carbon footprint that would be released from the elaborate glass-making process. On average this new technique would save about 50,000 pounds of raw materials. Chanel is aiming to fully introduce this method by 2022, which they hope will promote sustainable life whilst keeping the elegant aesthetic of the iconic bottle.
Chanel No. 5 is the world’s most best-selling and iconic fragrance and it’s clear from the precise process why it has gathered and retained so much name and fame for the past 100 years. From its flower harvesting process to the actual chemical mixture, and even to its simple yet famous packaging; the perfume employs the use of many raw materials. Furthermore, the new edition of the glass used in the forthcoming Chanel No. 5 bottles shows how Chanel aims to be more energy-efficient, which is significantly important as it is such an influential brand.
CHANEL NO. 5 PERFUME BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. Cousteau, Ashlan, and Kristen Taekman. “How It's Made: The Iconic Chanel No. 5.” Fashion.Luxury, Designsponge, 26 July 2019, https://fashion.luxury/beauty/how-its-made-the-iconic-chanel-no-5/.
Tielman, Maxwell, et al. “Art in the Everyday: The Chanel No. 5 Bottle.” DesignSponge, http://www.designsponge.com/2013/02/art-in-the-everyday-the-chanel-no-5-bottle.html.
Dukovic, Pari. “The Flowers That Make Chanel No. 5.” The New Yorker, The New Yorker, 12 Mar. 2018, https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/03/19/fragrant-harvest.
Mazzeo, Tilar. The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume. Harper Perennial. September 5, 2011
Burr, Chandler. “Synthetic No. 5.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 27 Aug. 2006, https://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/27/style/tmagazine/t_w_1532_1697_face_perfume_.html.
“How Ethical Is Chanel?” Good On You, 24 Aug. 2020, https://goodonyou.eco/how-ethical-is-chanel/. Accessed 24 Oct. 2021
Mackenzie, Macaela. “Spraying Your Perfume Apparently Produces as Much Air Pollution as Car Emissions.” Allure, Allure, 23 Feb. 2018, https://www.allure.com/story/perfume-air-pollution-study#:~:text=Each%20spritz%20of%20your%20perfume,be%20damaging%20to%20your%20health. Accessed 24 Oct. 2021
Marinelli, Gina. “Chanel No. 5 Ban in EU - Allergens in Perfumes.” Chanel No. 5 Ban In EU - Allergens In Perfumes, https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/chanel-no-5.
Ladha, Shubham. “Why the Chanel No. 5 Bottle Is Just as Iconic as the Perfume.” Architectural Digest India, Architectural Digest India, 9 Sept. 2021, https://www.architecturaldigest.in/story/simple-and-transparent-the-chanel-no-5-bottle-is-just-as-iconic-as-the-perfume/.
Mahadev DesaiMahadev Desai is the Founder and CEO of gharpedia.com and SDCPL a leading design consultancy firm having strong national presence. He has a degree in Civil Engineering (BE) and Law (LLB) and has rich experience of 45 years. Besides being the . “Raw Materials Used in Glass Manufacturing Process.” GharPedia, 15 June 2020, https://gharpedia.com/blog/raw-materials-used-in-glass-manufacturing-process/.
Hanbing Xie
DES040A Fall 2021
Professor Cogdell
TA: Daniel
Chanel No.5: Energy
Perfume, a liquid product mixed with fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds and solvents can give subjects a pleasant scent. The history of perfume can go back to thousands of years. In the ancient civilizations of Egypt, Persia, Rome, and China, perfume was used to anoint the body and they can also be “added to water and other liquids for beautification and religious purposes”. It has been becoming more and more popular and affordable in modern society around the world. Chanel No 5, produced by a French businesswoman Coco Chanel in 1921, is one of the world's most iconic perfumes and it is still popular even after 100 years have passed. Behind its use of more than 80 ingredients, multi-layered formulation, and the perfect, complex, and fresh flavor, Chanel No 5 did a good job at energy saving. Throughout this paper, I will be going in-depth on the full life cycle of energy usage of Chanel No 5 during the processes of collecting raw materials, manufacturing, distributing, reusing, and recycling.
The energy usage during the raw material acquisition process of Chanel No 5 takes little energy. In order to produce a perfume, the designer needs to think of the flavor he/she desired to obtain for the final product. After that, designers will look for the raw materials that fit their ideal. Coco Chanel, a French fashion designer and the founder of the Chanel brand, used Rose centifolia, Jasmine, and Ylang-Ylang as main materials and other materials include orris root, iris root, and natural musks in perfume Chanel No 5. The flavor of the final product perfectly fits Coco’s standard so the formulation has hardly changed since 1921, 100 years ago from now. To be more specific about harvesting the raw materials, Chanel actually did a great job at reducing energy usage and protecting the environment. Ylang-ylang is harvested from Madagascar and Mayotte and rose centifolia and jasmine are harvested by hand at the Mul Family Estate near the town of Grasse, the world's perfume capital. Chanel stated that each 30 ml bottle of Chanel No 5 contains “no more than 12 May roses” and “requires 1,000 jasmine flowers”. To think of all the materials required for a bottle of perfume, the energy usage seems to be massive. The energy usage mainly comes from the plantation of raw materials. The harvest season of rose centifolia is in the month of May every year. It only lasts three weeks long, so harvesters need to work fast. According to the article, each harvester will work for “4 hours a day and each would be harvesting about 7,000 roses”. The supply chain isn’t affected too much by the COVID-19 pandemic because harvesters were able to work outside. The raw materials used in the products have mostly “come from regions with environmental and social challenges”. Chanel was invested in addressing these challenges as “part of their supply-chain resiliency strategy” to ensure the materials can be used for the long term and set a good example. They promoted the principles of regenerative agriculture and individual farmers’ income increased. So, Chanel is trying to ensure the sourcing of their raw materials is corresponding to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the United Nations.
After harvesting raw materials, the next step is to produce the oil or fragrance concentrate for perfume. During the manufacturing process, Chanel No 5 takes less energy than I thought. The methods for extracting perfume oil include “solvent extraction, steam distillation, expression, enfleurage, or maceration”. As for Chanel No 5, the manufacturer uses solvent extraction to extract oil because other methods would be too invasive for precious raw materials like rose centifolia and jasmine, etc… Solvent extracting rose centifolia and jasmine can produce a highly fragrant and concentrated oil. During the process, the roses will be dumped into a vat, called an extractor. Then there are five levels in each extractor to separate the roses from being crushed. Once the vat is full, a heavy lid is clamped into place to seal the whole extractor. After that, hexane, a highly volatile solvent, is pumped into the vat to dissolve the molecules in the flowers and extract the principal fragrance. When the process is complete, the roses in the vat will be replaced by stacks of brown, soggy petals, and the rose extracts are consolidated and left at the bottle of the vat in the form of fragrant wax. “Nearly 400kg of roses are needed” to produce 1kg of fragrant wax and “over 7 million hand-picked jasmine flowers are needed” to produce 1 kg of fragrant wax. But after so many processes, this is not the end. The fragrant wax will be transferred into absolute. First, “the wax is blended with alcohol several times in mixers”. Then, the mixture is chilled and filtered to separate the wax from the liquid before it is steam-distilled to remove the alcohol. About “600g of roses absolute can be derived from 1kg of fragrance wax”. Imagining the complicated, cumbersome, and time-consuming steps to make perfume, some might think the process must be energy-consuming. While in fact, solvent extraction has a lower energy consumption and higher extraction efficiency than distillation.
Besides producing the fragrance, Chanel also puts a lot of effort into producing the glass bottle for Chanel No 5. The bottle was designed so successfully that the original bottle design has not changed much over the years. Moreover, the bottle had joined the permanent collection at the New York Museum of Modern Art in 1959. It was “created in partnership with Pochet du Courval”, a company headquartered in France specializing in the manufacture of perfume bottles for the luxury industry. Coco wants the bottle to be crystal pure and transparent but the technology is a big challenge due to the lack of purity of the raw material. However, Pochet du Courval developed a new industrial process in order to guarantee the bottle's transparency that is ‘close to crystal’. The company used a high-end recycled glass for the perfume bottle and the glass bottle is recyclable. According to the company, "for every one million bottles of its recycled glass adopted, more than 25 tonnes of raw virgin material is saved." Also, the carbon footprint of the bottle is approximate “40 percent lower than a typical 50-milliliter perfume bottle” made by the same glass producer.
Transporting and distributing Chanel No 5 takes a lot of energy, but Chanel is working on a greener way to reduce energy use and emissions. As I mentioned above, Chanel No 5 is manufactured in Grasse, France. After the products have been produced, they will be shipped to distributors worldwide to sell the products. Chanel owns around 310 Chanel boutiques around the world and there are “94 in Asia, 70 in Europe, 10 in the Middle East, 128 in North America, 1 in Central America, 2 in South America, and 6 in Oceania.” Once they are ready, the fragrance will be shipped to these stores that are in need through airplanes or ships. Also, there is another option, which is to buy the product from Chanel’s online store. So customers can avoid travel to local stores to purchase perfume. Though there are no statistics about the energy consumption or carbon emissions of transporting the perfume Chanel No 5, we are able to find out that, via Chanel’s report in 2018, “the company’s emissions associated with transporting goods and people are approximately 162,000 tons CO2eq/year”. However, after the Paris Agreement, the company is making changes to approach and achieve a greener corporation. The action plans include packing optimization to reduce the volume of transport, shifting from air to sea transport where feasible, switching to electric vehicles, and further rationalizing elements of the supply chain, and increasing the volume of products shipped by sea.
Chanel actually has a unique service which is to refill the perfume bottle. However, there are a few requirements: labels that are indicating the new batch number can’t be removed, the bottle must be well preserved, which means the bottle can’t be damaged and the working pump and the push button are still on the bottle, and the service is “only available for N°5 L'EAU Eau de Toilette 100 ml, N°5 Eau de Parfum 100 ml, COCO MADEMOISELLE Eau de Parfum 100 ml, CHANCE EAU TENDRE Eau de Toilette 100 ml, and BLEU DE CHANEL Eau de Parfum 100 ml”. Thus, during this step, no energy is needed.
Recycling perfume bottle takes much less energy. After the perfume is used up, there are various ways to handle the perfume bottle. As I mentioned, the perfume bottle is recyclable, so the leftover glass bottle can be used to produce new bottles. While due to the successful design of Chanel No 5’s bottle, the bottle itself is still valuable and customers are more likely to collect the bottle instead of throwing it away easily like trash. The bottle can be used as a decoration or a vase after the nozzle has been pulled out and the bottle has been cleaned. Besides this, customers can also sell the entire bottle on eBay or Etsy. An empty perfume bottle can go around 20 dollars to 40 dollars and a vintage Chanel No 5 bottle can even go to around 100 dollars. Thus, the final disposal does not take much energy.
Bibliography
Schlögel, Karl. The Scent of Empires: Chanel No. 5 and Red Moscow. John Wiley & Sons, 2021.
Barwich, Ann‐Sophie, and Matthew Rodriguez. "Fashion fades, Chanel No. 5 remains: Epistemology between style and technology." Berichte zur Wissenschaftsgeschichte 43.3 (2020): 367-384. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/bewi.202000006?casa_token=rrihkGi4M3gAAAAA%3AW23jAr5ioJpCI3ppaR6MHF2XcQAZkJaNKCfQA3prDeuOEii3J9I2I5e-kSW2DhjHzOMmfwzB7AZTJD9x
Ask Truckload. “The Basics of Perfume Transportation.” Make sense of the rules and regulations around perfume transportation with an expert freight partner on your side. March 16, 2020.
https://usatruckloadshipping.com/the-basics-of-perfume-transportation/
How perfume is made - material, manufacture.
http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Perfume.html
Leanna Serras. “How Is Perfume Made? The Perfume Manufacturing Guide”APR 26, 2019.
https://www.fragrancex.com/blog/how-is-perfume-made/
CHANEL. “REPORT TO SOCIETY”, 2018.
https://services.chanel.com/i18n/en_US/pdf/Report_to_Society.pdf
Lindsay Colameo. “The World’s Most Popular Fragrance Is Exactly What You’d Think”, February 6, 2019.
https://www.thezoereport.com/p/how-chanel-no-5-became-the-worlds-most-popular-fragrance-15905826
CHANEL. “DESCRIPTION”.
https://www.chanel.com/us/fragrance/p/105155/n5-parfum-refillable-purse-spray/
Terence Lim. “May Rose: Discover The Key Ingredient Behind Chanel No. 5”, July 30, 2019.
https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/beauty/chanel-may-rose-no-5-perfume
Becky Bargh. “Chanel goes green with recycled glass for Nº5 fragrance”, September 22, 2021.
Wastes & Emissions - Megha Ayyagari
Introduction
Chanel, an elegant perfume company that once started off by selling hats, is currently a 13.2 billion dollar company. Chanel N°5 is Chanel’s first fragrance that was released in the year 1921. This fragrance gained a lot of popularity and it is often considered one of the best fragrances of Chanel. Chanel’s goal is for the materials used in the product to be recycled at the end of their lifecycle. They are trying to make more efforts to make the world more sustainable by reducing carbon emissions.
However there are a lot of other wastes and emissions that we can consider when we think about the entire lifecycle of the product. We need to think about the energy, materials, and waste that is an outcome of every stage of the process during the lifecycle of the perfume. Wastes like packaging, nozzle, label, the gas in the perfume et cetera are often very overlooked. Sometimes the fact there are some parts of the product that are sustainable convinces people to buy the product because that thought makes them forget about the wastes and emissions during the entire lifecycle of the product. This is really important because through this we can know how the choices we make impact the climate and we can make better decisions accordingly.
A common misconception is that the only waste is the product after consumption by the consumer. The manufacturing, processing, or formulation of the product isn’t considered often. That is why during the lifecycle of a product, we need to consider the wastes in each of the step which are: raw materials acquisition, manufacturing, processing, formulation, distribution, transportation, use, reuse, maintenance, recycling process, and waste management.
Raw materials
Some of the raw materials for Chanel no.5 perfume are flowers like rose, jasmine, ylang ylang that are used to extract the essential oils for the perfume, glass, cap, label etc.
To make the glass container to hold the Chanel no.5 perfume, Chanel recently started recycling old Chanel glass bottles to make the newer ones. The use of SEVA 3 a new-generation recycled glass that helps prevent some of the waste during the process. This will be implemented in 2022.During the process of the flower acquisition, the flowers used would need to be refrigerated and transported from the location of the garden to the factories where the perfume is made. This can often be a long distance. Hence it causes a lot of Carbon Dioxide (CO2) emissions. The cap in this product is 91% biodegradable.
Manufacturing/ processing/ formulation
These flowers are then used to make the essential oils in the perfume. In this process, the rose oil industry needs to discard a lot of fresh rose petals. This is because some of them may have low essential oil content. This causes a lot of waste in the raw materials which is then discarded in the nearby locations. This could potentially lead to ecological problems. During the manufacturing there are also many other different emissions like the heating of facilities, electricity, heat, steam & cooling etc.
Distribution and transportation
This product is transported from France to its different locations via an airplane. This causes a lot of CO2 emissions. It also increases the greenhouse gases by around 3-4%. During the distribution and transportation there are also other emissions from fuel of vehicles which add to the carbon footprint.
Use, Re-Use and Maintenance
Chanel had an initiative in which they had a perfume fountain where customers could refill their empty perfume bottles. This temporarily helps prevent the glass going into the recycling but eventually it will be recycled. Apart from that, after the life of Chanel, the consumer can’t use the product anymore. Not every consumer has access (they might not live close enough, or even have knowledge of this initiative) to the perfume fountain. While using the perfume, spraying it causes volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) to spread in the ozone layer which is harmful.
Recycling
Chanel has recently adopted new recycled glass bottles for the perfume. This change will take place starting in 2022. The cap in this product is 91% biodegradable. So in that process some amount of waste is eliminated, however the labels would still need to be removed and trashed. A potential way to avoid this process would be to repurpose the bottle to either keep flowers or anything at all in it.
Waste management
If this product does end up in the recycling, the new glass bottle will almost fully degrade. However, with the previous design, it would take almost 2 million years. The label would not biodegrade. The nozzle which is made up of plastic in the previous designs will end up at the landfill but with the new biodegradable design, it’s almost fully biodegradable. This is a great effort on their part. One thing to keep in mind is, if this perfume isn’t disposed of properly, it can be pretty dangerous since the chemicals in it can potentially react with the rest of the waste and cause a reaction.
It is always important to take into consideration the wastes and emissions of any product. Knowing the environmental impact of the products help us be mindful of our carbon footprint and how our actions impact the environment in the future. This is really essential because we need to think about all the future generations that are yet to come. Chanel is such a big company. A lot of famous people endorse it. A lot of young people are influenced by them and want to buy their own chanel products too. Therefore more people need to be educated about the wastes & emissions of their favourite brands. These brands are in themselves not wrong but I believe that this knowledge about all the wastes and emissions that occurs in the lifecycle of the product should be transparent to the users of the product. By knowing all the impact their action of just buying a product can have on the environment will make people buy certain products less. This will challenge the companies to use more sustainable raw materials and methods.
Conclusion
Thinking about the overall lifecycle of all the products is consequential in regards to our carbon footprint. At one point when we really think about it, our every action may have bad consequences, but we should try to be mindful as much as we can.
Chanel no.5 is making a lot of great efforts to reduce its carbon footprint and make a more sustainable product. However, through the lifecycle of Chanel no.5, we can see that there are so many wastes and emissions that we would’ve never considered when we just look at the product like the carbon emissions from the factories or even the volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) released into the atmosphere by spraying the product. This may be invisible to us but we shouldn't be ignorant about it.
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